Four Roses Small Batch Select
It’s not every day that Four Roses adds a new expression to their standard bourbon lineup. Heck, it’s not even every decade. But recently such a day came, as the Kentucky distillery released the new Small Batch Select as the fourth member of their core range (the Fourth Rose, as the distillery has called it), joining the previously existing Yellow Label (which is no longer yellow), Small Batch, and Single Barrel. Exciting times!
Speaking of the Yellow Label… since it is indeed no longer yellow (it’s now a generic light tan), what should we call it? Yellow Label was never the official name of the whiskey, but that’s what everyone has always called it, due obviously to the (previous) color of the label. The Four Roses website simply calls it Four Roses Bourbon, but that seems a bit confusing. Aren’t all of their bourbons Four Roses Bourbon? Yes. Yes they are. I’ve seen some people start to call it Four Roses Original, but that’s boring. Tan Label? Eh, no. I guess we’ll just keep calling it Yellow Label? I don’t have a better idea, so I’m sticking with that.
Anyhow.
Small Batch Select now sits atop the core range in terms of both proof and price, so I guess the distillery is considering it to be their top shelf offering. Yes, the Barrel Strength Private Selection releases sit even higher (in proof and price), but they aren’t technically part of the core, being only available as individual store picks and occasionally at the Four Roses gift shops.
When talking about any Four Roses expression, you can’t get around mentioning the 10 bourbon recipes the distillery is famous for making. Brief rundown: Yellow Label includes all 10 recipes, Small Batch includes four of them (OBSK, OESK, OBSO, OESO), and of course the Single Barrel is just one (OBSV). If you need an explanation of what all that means, I’ve talked about the 10 recipes in both my Batch Strength Private Selection review and in my 10 Recipe Blind Tasting write-up.
Rather than being a higher proof version of the regular Small Batch, the new Small Batch Select is a completely different bourbon, employing six recipes (OBSV, OESV, OBSK, OESK, OBSF, OESF), most of which are not found in the regular Small Batch. Personally I think Four Roses should have considered a different name for this bourbon to avoid confusion, but as evidenced with the Yellow Label, naming their expressions is not Four Roses’ forte. That’s OK, it’s what’s in the bottle that matters.
Small Batch Select is a no age statement (NAS) bourbon, although according to the distillery it’s a blend of 6-7 year old barrels. And in a move worthy of applause, this whiskey is non-chill filtered and proudly states as such on the label.
Select was originally launched in mid-April at the Four Roses gift shops in Cox’s Creek and Lawrenceburg and has since expanded to the rest of Kentucky and a handful of other states, with a full nationwide rollout coming over the next year. I happened to be driving through Kentucky the week after it was released, so I was able to swing by Cox’s Creek and pick up a bottle. What does the first new Four Roses in 12 years taste like and is it worth the wait? Let’s see.
Four Roses Small Batch Select Review
Type: Straight Bourbon
Region: Kentucky
Age: NAS
ABV: 52%
Non chill-filtered
Nose
Fruity and spicy, with a big dose of fresh mint leaves. Vanilla. Apricot. Peach. Dark caramel. Oak. A very nice nose.
Palate
An initial blast of rye spice, with plenty of spicy spearmint. This is a vibrant bourbon, with a real zing to it. Youthful, but not immature. Liquid caramel sauce. Spicy vanilla. Peaches and cream. Granny Smith apples. Dried apricot. A hint of banana. Leather and tobacco. The mouthfeel is solid, rather creamy and full. Tasty stuff.
Finish
Medium to long in length and dry. More spicy mint. Floral. Dried apricot and apple. Oak. A faint hint of vitamins and something metallic. The spiciness lingers the longest.
Overall
A spicy, rye-forward bourbon, with a hefty dose of apricot and peach… it’s pretty damn good. I think I could be fooled into thinking this was a “barely legal” rye whiskey if I didn’t know better. Drinking it side by side with Four Roses Single Barrel (the 100 proof version), it really is quite different, which is nice to see. The Single Barrel is much sweeter and caramel-laden. Which one is better? I’d say it really comes down to what kind of a mood you’re in. There’s certainly a place on the shelf for more than one rose.
Bottom line, I’m a fan of this bourbon. It’s better than the regular Small Batch (which I was never a huge fan of, to be honest) and on par with a lot of the Four Roses store picks I’ve had.
SCORE: 7/10
Final Thoughts
I mentioned this already, but it warrants a second mention—I’m really happy to see Four Roses explicitly state on the label that this bourbon is non-chill filtered. A lot of people assume that higher ABV whiskeys are not chill filtered, but that’s not always the case (Diageo and all their distilleries being especially guilty of the practice). And even when whiskey’s aren’t chill filtered, most American distilleries don’t tell us on the label. I really hope more bourbon and rye makers start to avoid chill filtration AND state it on the label.
Some people are complaining about the price of Small Batch Select (around $50-55), saying that for only $5 more you can get a Four Roses Barrel Strength store pick. To that I say, where can you still find the Barrel Strength for $55 or even $60? I haven’t seen it priced under $65 for quite a while. And even so, Small Batch Select is better than plenty of store picks I’ve had. In my opinion, Select is fairly priced for the current bourbon marketplace.
Buying Advice: If you’re a fan of spicy bourbons, you’re going to want a bottle of this on your shelf. It’s tasty, fairly unique, and a reasonable value.
Questions about my scoring system? Refer to the Review Method & Scoring Scale page.
For more reviews, check out the Whisky Review Archive.
