Ardbeg Drum Committee Release
What more is there to say about Ardbeg’s annual special releases? Every year a new expression comes out with much fanfare and marketing. Every year bottles are quickly gobbled up by ravenous fans (and flippers/investors, let’s be honest). The only thing that differs from year to year is the whisky itself. Some years have been good (Dark Cove), some years have been not so good (Grooves).
After the disappointment that was Grooves last year (which was one of my least favorite Ardbegs ever), I was hesitant to spend my money on any more of Ardbeg’s Committee Releases or Ardbeg Day releases. But lo and beyond, the temptation of a rum-matured Ardbeg (and that damned lore of limited release whisky) got the better of me. So here we are.
Yes these Ardbeg special releases are overpriced, even at MSRP. They quickly become even more overpriced on the secondary market. (Which means maybe they were actually underpriced to start with based on the laws of supply and demand? Eh, I’m not going to go there. A topic for another day perhaps.) It takes some effort to get a hold of a bottle, although this year it seemed like there were more bottles to go around than normal. At least it seemed that way to me locally… which perhaps had something to do with the fact that the Ardbeg Bus happened to be here in Nashville on the weekend that Drum was released.
Adorned with childish stickers that look like they may be scratch ‘n sniff tasting notes of banana, pineapple, and brine, this whisky seems to not take itself too seriously. Is that a good thing? Maybe? I don’t really need stickers on my whisky bottle telling me what it tastes like, but whatever. Maybe that appeals to someone. The bottle is a colorful affair, I must admit. I don’t hate it. And the stickers really do remind me of the scratch ‘n sniff stickers that I loved as a kid.
Note: The stickers are not scratch ‘n sniff. And yes, I tried.
Anyhow, I think it’s clear that I’ve become pretty skeptical about these special releases. And yet… in spite of my cynicism, in spite of a dark desire to want to trash this whisky as overhyped marketing nonsense… I really like Drum. I really do. A lot. Damn it, Ardbeg. This is why I always get sucked into these releases… because there is a chance that they might be unique and delicious. Drum is that, I’m almost sorry to say.
Let’s take a closer look.
Ardbeg Drum CR Review
Type: Single Malt Scotch
Region: Islay
Age: NAS
ABV: 52%
Non chill-filtered
Nose
I really don’t want to admit that the stupid tasting note stickers on the bottle are accurate, but damn it, they are. Or at least damn close. Grilled pineapple. Unripe bananas. Tropical fruits. Briny seaweed. Sushi. Young peat smoke, although not as much as you’d expect from an Ardbeg. Rubber. Quite a bit of oak. Bourbon soaked oak specifically, with just a hint of rum. Pungent clay and damp earth.
Palate
Grilled pineapple and caramelized banana. Yeah I know, again those bloody stickers, but they really are pretty accurate. Smoked ham. Orange marmalade. Summer sausage. Vanilla cream. Lavender-infused simple syrup. Wet earth and clay, reminiscent of a good Mezcal. Molasses. Funky like a good Jamaican rum, especially after the bottle was open for a couple weeks.
The peat smoke is certainly present, but doesn’t take center stage to the extent of typical Ardbeg expressions. Rather the peat works in harmony with the tropical fruits and achieves a nice balance of sweet and savory notes.
Finish
Ok, here is where your typical Ardbeg notes suddenly appear. Fairly long in length, with smoked ham and pineapple. The peat smoke is more prominent on the finish than on the nose or palate. Seaweed. Motor oil and tar.
Overall
I’m pleasantly surprised, and that’s an understatement. Drum is a very well balanced, unique, and delightful Islay whisky. Sweet peat, to say the least. I’m thoroughly enjoying my bottle, to the point where I actually bought a second bottle when given the opportunity (I was lucky to find two bottles that were both sold to me at a little under MSRP).
Some of the notes on the palate really remind me of a bottle of Mezcal I have that came from a small village in Mexico that uses clay stills. If you enjoy Mezcal, then Drum might be up your alley (and vice versa).
SCORE: 7/10
Final Thoughts
I really like this whisky. It’s unique compared to Ardbeg’s core range, which is what I want from a special release whisky. Too many of Ardbeg’s recent special releases have been just a tweak on their standard expressions, whereas Drum is a different side of the distillery. I’m quite happy with it.
I’ve seen a few other reviewers mention that they don’t get much of any rum influence in Drum. That has me puzzled. It’s true that this whisky probably spent more time in ex-bourbon casks than it did in ex-rum casks, yet the rum aspect seems pretty substantial to me. I’m actually pretty surprised at how much rum influence I find in Drum. Now it’s not your typical cheap rum that’s littered with added sugar and other crap, like Bacardi or Captain Morgan. Rather it’s more like a good premium rum with some funkiness to it. If I had to guess, I’d wager the barrels are from a good Jamaican pot still rum. Those are the types of rum notes I’m finding in Drum, and I’m guessing that people who are saying Drum doesn’t have any rum influence simply aren’t familiar with a good, funky Jamaican rum.
Buying Advice: If you can find Drum at MSRP ($130) and you’re an Ardbeg fan looking for something a little different, it’s not a bad buy. Like I said, I like it enough to have bought two bottles. I wouldn’t pay secondary prices though—it’s good, but it’s not that good.
Questions about my scoring system? Refer to the Review Method & Scoring Scale page.
For more reviews, check out the Whisky Review Archive.
