Whisky Review: Bunnahabhain 12

When you think of Islay whisky, you probably think of peat smoke. Islay certainly has its share of “peat bombs,” but not all Islay whiskies are created equal. Bunnahabhain (pronounced BUN-a-HAV-in), located on the north shore of Islay, is not your typical Islay whisky. It’s certainly no peat bomb. In fact, most of their whiskies, including their entry level 12 year, are not peated at all (any peat found in the whisky, if there is any, probably comes from the water source).

Being an unpeated malt from an island known for peated malt means that Bunnahabhain often gets overshadowed by its peat-heavy brethren. Which is a shame. In my opinion, Islay should be known more for the fact that almost all of its distilleries produce distinctive and outstanding whisky regardless of style, not just for being the home of heavily-peated whisky.

In addition to its unpeated, age-stated core range, Bunnahabhain does also produce some heavily-peated whisky, such as Toiteach (which is quite good). But today I’m taking a look at the unpeated 12 year, which is matured in a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, presented in its natural color, and non chill-filtered.

Nose: Sweet with notes of toffee, tart cherry pie, and hints of old sherry cask (chocolate, baked goods, spice). Coastal oak. A touch of brine. Lemon cake with vanilla icing. Light fruits—peach in particular, but also apples and white grapes. A little dill. Light milk chocolate. Or maybe white chocolate… or chocolate mousse. Yes, chocolate mousse. Strawberry. Marzipan. Banana nut bread. Although this is a 12 year old whisky, I would guess there is at least a little much older, sherry-matured whisky in here. Excellent.

Palate: The arrival is mostly toffee, vanilla, stewed fruits, and mixed nuts. Hints of the ocean—sea salt and brine. Pear. White grape. Candy corn. Berries. A tiny suggestion of peat, without there actually being any peat (if that makes sense). Cocoa. As the palate develops, a lovely vanilla chocolate swirl emerges, as well as peanuts and fudge. Actually it kind of turns into a hot fudge sundae. The mouthfeel is rich and thick. Quite nice.

Finish: Medium in length. Cocoa powder with berries, pear, and a touch of oak. Also some after-dinner mints and peanuts.

Overall: A very well rounded dram. Classic. Great balance between bourbon and sherry cask influence. I can’t think of another entry level, core range single malt with a better nose. And the palate and finish are quite good too, even if they’re not amazing. This is one of the best “bang for your buck” whiskies out there. Recommended.

Buy again? Yes.

Score: 86/100

Questions about my scoring system? Refer to the Review Method & Scoring Scale page.

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